Afrosartorialism

Akou, Heather M. (2011). The Politics of Dress in Somali Culture. Indiana University Press.

Allman, Jean (ed.)  (2004). Fashioning Africa: Power and the Politics of Dress. Indiana University Press.

Bruggeman, D. (2017). “Vlisco: Made in Holland, adorned in West Africa,(re) appropriated as Dutch design”. Fashion, Style & Popular Culture 4:2, 197-214.

Delhaye, Christine. & Rhoda Woets(2015). “The commodification of ethnicity: Vlisco fabrics and wax cloth fashion in Ghana”. International Journal of Fashion Studies 2:1, 77-97.

de Greef, Erica (2018). “Tracing the Quiet Cultural Activism: Laduma Ngxokolo and Black Coffee”. In Pinther, Kerstin, and Alexandra Weigand, (eds), Flow of Forms/Forms of Flow: Design Histories between Africa and Europe. Vol. 37. transcript Verlag.

de Greef, Erica (2014). “Fashion as a site for memory: reflections on a fashion exhibition,‘Clive Rundle about Memory’.” International Journal of Fashion Studies 1: 2, 247-268.

de Witte, Marleen (2014). “Heritage, Blackness and Afro-Cool”. African Diaspora 7:2, 260-289. [open access]

Design Indaba (2016). Africa Rising: Fashion, Lifestyle and Design from Africa. Die Gestalten Verlag. 

Diawara, Manthia (2005). “The 1960s in Bamako: Malick Sidibè and James Brown”. In Harry J. Elam, Jr.and Kennell Jackson (eds.), Black Cultural Traffic: Crossroads in Global Performance and Popular Culture. University of Michigan Press. [open access]

Dogbe, Esi (2003). “Unraveled yarns: Dress, consumption, and women’s bodies in Ghanaian culture”. Fashion Theory, 7:3-4, 377-395.

Farber, Leora (2010) .“Africanising hybridity? Toward an Afropolitan aesthetic in contemporary South African fashion design”. Critical Arts 24:1, 128-167.

Farber, Leora (2015). “Hypersampling black masculinities, Jozi style”. Image & Text 26, 111-136 [open access]

Farber, Leora (2017). “Asserting Creative Agencies through the Sartorial: (Re)Fashioning African and African Diasporic Masculinities”. Critical Arts 31:3, 1-17.

Ford, Tanisha C. (2015). Liberated Threads: Black Women, Style, and the Global Politics of Soul. University of North Carolina Press. 

Gandoulou, J. D. (1989). Dandies à Bacongo. Le culte de l’Élégance dans la société congolaise contemporaine. Paris: L’Harmattan.

Gondola, Didier (1999). “Dream and drama: The search for elegance among Congolese Youth”. African Studies Review 42:1, 23–48.

Gott, Suzanne & Kristyne Loughran (eds.) (2010). Contemporary African Fashion. Indiana University Press. 

Gott, Suzanne (2015). “Asante Hightimers and the Fashionable Display of Women’s Wealth in Contemporary Ghana“. Fashion Theory 13:2, 141-176.

Grabski, Joanna (2015). “Making Fashion in the City: A Case Study of Tailors and Designers in Dakar, Senegal”. Fashion Theory 13:2, 215-242.

Hanneken, J. (2008). “Mikilistes and Modernistas: Taking Paris to the ‘Second Degree’”. Comparative literature, 60:4, 370-388. [open access]

Hansen, Karen Tranberg (2000). Salaula: The world of secondhand clothing and Zambia. University of Chicago Press.

Hansen, Karen Tranberg (2010). “The City, Clothing Consumption, and the Search for “the Latest” in Colonial and Postcolonial Zambia”. In Beverly Lemire (ed.), The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society: Global Perspectives from Modern to Contemporary Times, 215-234. [open access draft]

Hansen, Karen Tranberg & D. Soyini Madison (eds.) (2013). African Dress: Fashion, Agence, Performance. Bloomsbury.

Hendrickson, Hildi (ed.) (1996). Clothing and Difference: embodied identities in colonial and post-colonial Africa. Duke University Press.

___ (1994). “The ‘long’ dress and the construction of Herero identities in Southern Africa.” African Studies 53.2, 25-54

Inggs, Alice. (2017) “The Suit Is Mine: Skhothane and the Aesthetic of the African Modern”. Critical Arts 31:3, 90-105

Jansen, M. Angela (2015). “Defining Moroccanness: the aesthetics and politics of contemporary Moroccan fashion design”. The Journal of North African Studies 21:1, 132-147.

Jennings, Helen (2011). New African Fashion. Prestel.

Jennings, Helen (2015). “A Brief History of African Fashion”. NKA: Journal of Contemporary African Art 37, 44-53.

Jennings, Helen (2015). “Haute Africa”. NKA: Journal of Contemporary African Art 37, 126-128.

Kaiser, Susan B. & Sarah Rebolloso McCullough (2015). “Entangling the Fashion Subject Through the African Diaspora: From Not to (K)not in Fashion Theory”. Fashion Theory 14:3, 361-386.

Klopper, S. (2000). “Re-dressing the Past: the Africanisation of Sartorial Style in Contemporary South Africa”. In A. Brah and A.E. Coombes (eds.). Hybridity and its Discontents: Politics, Science and Culture. Routledge, 216-231.

Lewis, Van Dyk (2015). “Dilemmas in African Diaspora Fashion”. Fashion Theory 7:2, 163-190.

Loughran, Kristyne  (2015). “The Idea of Africa in European High Fashion: Global Dialogues”. Fashion Theory 13:2, 243-271.

Lukhele, Francis (2017). “Jacket(ed) and Suit(ably) Coat(ed): Swazi Masculine Sartorial Performances”. Critical Arts 31:3,106-122.

Martin, Phyllis (1995). Leisure and Society in Colonial Brazzaville. Cambridge University Press.

Miller, Monica (2009). Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. Duke University Press.

Moletsane, Relebohile, Claudia Mitchell & Ann Smith (2012). Was it something I wore?: Dress Identity Materiality. HRSC Press.

Mokoena, Hlonipha (2017). “The Rickshaw Puller and the Zulu Policeman: Zulu Men, Work, and Clothing in Colonial Natal”. Critical Arts 31:3, 123-141.

Mustafa, Hudita N. (1998). “Sartorial ecumenes: African styles in a social and economic context”. The Art of African Fashion, 13-48.

Nettleton, Anitra (2017). “Dress and a Fashioned Identity among Black South African Migrant Miners in the Mid-Twentieth Century”. Critical Arts 31:3, 18-34.

Nuttall, Sarah (2008). “Stylizing the Self”. In Sarah Nuttall & Achille Mbembe (eds.), Johannesburg: The Elusive Metropolis. Duke University Press.

Oboe, Annalisa (2019). “Sculptural eyewear and Cyberfemmes : afrofuturist arts”. From the European South 4, 31-44.

Phillis, Martin (1994). “Contesting clothes in colonial Brazzaville”. The Journal of African History, 35:3, 401-426.

Plankensteiner, Barbara & Nath Mayo Adediran (eds.) (2010). African lace: a history of trade, creativity and fashion in Nigeria. Snoeck Publishers.

Pool, Hanna Azieb (2016). Fashion Cities Africa. Intellect.

Rabine, Leslie W. (2002). The Global Circulation of African Fashion. Berg.

Rabine, Leslie W. (2015). “Fashionable Photography in Mid-Twentieth-Century Senegal”. Fashion Theory 14:3, 305-330.

Rovine, Victoria L. (2001). Bogolan: Shaping Culture Through Cloth in Contemporary Mali. Indiana University Press.

Rovine, Victoria L. (2004). “Working the Edge: XULY. Bët’s Recycled Clothing”, in Palmer, Alexandra & Hazel Clark (eds.). Old Clothes, New Looks: Second-Hand Fashion. Berg,  215-228.

Rovine, Victoria L. (2006). “African fashion design: global networks and local styles”. Africultures.com, August, 2.

Rovine, Victoria L. (ed.) (2009). “Viewing Africa Through Fashion”. Fashion Theory 13: 2, 133-139.

Rovine, Victoria L. (2015). African Fashion, Global Style: Histories, Innovations, and Ideas you Can Wear. Bloomington: Indiana University Press.

Rovine, Victoria L. (2016). “Style Migrations: South-South Networks of African Fashion”. ARTL@S Bulletin 5:2, 33-42. [open access]

Scheld, Suzanne (2007). “Youth Cosmopolitanism: Clothing, the City and Globalization in Dakar, Senegal”. City & Society, 19, 232–253

Schrobsdorff, Waridi & Daniele Tamagni (2017). Mtindo: Style Movers Rebranding Africa. Skira.

Spring, Christopher (2012). African Textiles Today. Washington: Smithsonian Books.

Sylvanus, Nina (2007). “The Fabric of Africanity: Tracing the Global Threads of Authenticity”. Anthropological Theory 7:2, 201-216.

Tamagni, Daniele (2009). Gentlemen of Bacongo. Trolley Books.

Tamagni, Daniele (2015). Fashion Tribes: Global Street Style. Harry N. Abrams.

Thomas, Dominic R. D. (2003). “Fashion matters: La Sape and vestimentary codes in transnational contexts and urban diasporas”. MLN, 118:4, 947-973.

Tulloch, Carol (2004). Black Style. Victoria and Albert Museum.

Tulloch, Carol (2015). “Style—Fashion—Dress: From Black to Post-Black”. Fashion Theory 14:3, 273-303.

Tulloch, Carol (2016). The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives of the Black Diaspora. Bloomsbury.

Vincent, Louise (2007). “Steve Biko and Stoned Cherrie: Refashioning the Body Politic in Democratic South Africa”. African Sociological Review, 11:2, 80-93. [open access]